Neval and I are going to Paris for our tenth anniversary in October 2018. I’m a planner—I like to know about the sights, cafes, restaurants, neighborhoods, and so forth ahead of time so that I don’t miss something. Neval prefers to explore and leave things to chance a bit more. We both agree that we like to walk and explore the city.

I believe I’ve found a middle ground. I compiled a list of things for us to do and neighborhoods, cafes, restaurants, etc. for us to visit. And then I added them to My Maps in Google Maps. Now, I have a walking route with specific things on it for every neighborhood. I am, however, comfortable throwing this plan away and adopting a more freewheeling plan at a moment’s notice. Yet, I’ll know at any given time and in any given place what’s worthwhile nearby.

Day 0 (Sun 10/7): Arrive

  • Land at 4p, head to Hotel Monge

  • Late dinner at Cafe de la Nouvelle Marie (reserve for Sunday at 8p: +33 1 44 07 04 41)

  • Walk around

  • Hot chocolate at Angelina

Day 1 (Mon 10/8): Latin Quarter, St-Germain, and Les Invalides

Morning:

  • Breakfast at Café Delmas (opens at 8a)

  • Walk down Rue Mouffetard

  • Check out Marche Mouffetard

  • Walk to Grande Mosquée de Paris

  • Walk through Jardin des Plantes

  • Visit Arab World Institute

  • Grab snacks from Hure and eat at Square Rene Viviani

  • Check out bookstores (Shakespeare & Company, The Abbey Bookshop, and Librairie Eyrolles)

  • Visit the Pantheon

  • Late snack/lunch at L’Avant Comptoir (3p)

  • Hang out in Luxembourg Gardens

Evening:

  • Relax, read

  • Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie (reserved at 8pm)

    • Alternatives: Le Relais d’Entrecote (no reservations—get there by 6.45p), L’aoc (reserve: +33 1 43 54 22 52), or La Rotisserie (reserve: +33 1 43 54 17 47)

  • 8p: Chopin concert at Eglise St. Julien le Pauvre

  • Check out music in Latin Quarter

  • Late: Angelina or Berthillon

Day 2 (Tue 10/9): The Islands, Jardin des Tuilleries, Arc de Triomph, Eiffel Tower

Morning:

  • Breakfast: light breakfast from Hure or Cafe Saint Regis (opens at 7a)

  • Saint-Chapelle, Conciergerie, Notre Dame, Pont Neuf, Square du Vert Galant

  • Lunch: Kunitoraya (udon) or Ace Gourmet Bento or Frenchie To Go

  • Walk to Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, Champs-Elysees, and Arc de Triomph

Evening:

  • 5p: Pre-concert snack at Jixiao’s Buns (or: Miznon, L’Avant Comptoir, …)

  • Music at L’eglise de la Madeleine: Tuesday, October 9, at 8 pm, The Four Seasons of Vivaldi, Pachelbel, Schubert and Gounod

  • Late dinner (10p) at Monsieur Blue (confirmed via email)

  • Eiffel Tower

Day 3 (Wed 10/10): Montmartre and SoPi

Morning:

  • Breakfast: Holybelly

  • Walk to The Kurdish Institute of Paris

  • Visit Sacre-Coeur

  • Grab snacks from Le Grenier a Pain and Fromagerie Chez Virginie

  • Picnic at Cimetiere de Montmartre

  • Visit Institute of Islamic Culture

  • Decide:

    • Visit Espace Dali

    • Musee de la Vie Romantique

    • Musee Jacquemart-Andre

    • Musee Nissim de Camondo

  • Eat at Urfa Durum

Evening:

  • Low key

  • Dinner: Le Coupe-Chou (reservation confirmed for 7.30p)

  • Head back to Place de Marche Saint-Catherine?

  • Music: Sunset-Sunside, Le Baiser Sale

Day 4 (Thu 10/10): Le Marais and Belleville

Morning:

  • Breakfast picnic in Parc Belleville (grab food from Au 140 and Fromagerie Beuafils)

  • Walk to Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise

  • Lunch at Pink Flamingo Pizza

  • Walk over to Fondation Cafe

  • Meander through Le Marais

  • Place des Voges

  • Place du Saint-Catherine

  • Late afternoon snack (3p): Miznon

Evening:

  • Dinner at Okomusu (reserved online for 8p)

  • Hang out at Place du Saint-Catherine

Day 5 (Fri 10/11): Versailles

  • Get picnic food and head to Versailles; rent bikes

  • Dinner?

    • Kunitoraya, 52 Faubourg

Day 6 (Sat 10/13): The Louvre

  • 12p: lunch at Hugo Desnoyer (reserved for 12p Fri: +33 1 46 47 83 00)

  • 3p: The Louvre

    • [plan]

  • Concert at 8p at The Louvre Auditorium: Sébastien Daucé, The Song of Orpheus, OR

    • Saint-Chapelle: 8p concert

  • 52 Faubourg?

Day 7 (Sun 10/14): Depart

  • Leave for Orly at 3.30p

  • Flight at 6.40p from Orly


Restaurants:

  • Urfa Dürüm (lahmacun in Strasbourg-Saint-Denis)

  • Chiche (hummus in 10th Arrondissement)

  • Popine (pizza)

  • Ima (Israeli vegetarian food in République)

  • Bouillon Pigalle (SoPi)

  • Jixiao's Buns (3rd Arrondissement)

  • Frenchie To Go

  • 52 Faubourg Saint-Denis

  • Sushi B (2nd Arrodindissement)

  • Clammato (seafood)

  • Biondi (barbecue)

  • Boutique yam’Tcha (Bao buns, Les Halles)

  • Shang Palace (Michelin-starred Chinese, lunch)

  • Le Tagine (Moroccan)

  • Quinsou (6th Arrondissement)

  • Jin (1st Arrondissement)

  • Miznon (Israeli, SoPi)

  • Da Graziella (pizza)

  • Abri Soba (Japanese in Montmartre)

Patisseries:

  • Boulangerie Bo

  • Ble Sucre

  • Des gâteaux et du pain (S-Germain)

  • Karamel (Invalides)

  • Utopie (Le Marais)

  • Pâtisserie Yann Couvreur (Le Marais)

  • Gâteaux Thoumieux (St-Germain)

  • La Pâtisserie des Rêves (St-Germain)

  • Hugo and Victor (St-Germain)

  • Stoney Clove Bakery (chocolate chip cookies in 2nd)

  • Le Bristol Paris (afternoon tea, chocolate macaroons)

  • Le Meurice (afternoon tea, 1st)

  • Prince de Galles (afternoon tea)

  • Patisserie Yann Couvreur (Le Marais)

  • Un Dimanche à Paris (breakfast and bakery)

  • Michalak

  • L’éclair de Génie

  • Jacques Genin (millefeuille in Le Marais)

  • Gontran Cherrier (Montmartre)

Fromageries:

  • Fromagerie Quatrehomme (St-Germain)

  • Barthélemy (St-Germain)

  • La Ferme Saint Hubert (one stop shop for picnic, 9th)

  • Laurent Dubois (Latin Quarter, “Roquefort, cut lengthwise and layered with quince jam”)

  • Androuët (St-Germain)

  • Alléosse (17th)

  • Fromagerie Beaufils (9th)

  • La Fermette (2nd)

  • Chez Virginie (Montmartre)

  • Marie-Anne Cantin (17th, “ideal place to buy picnic supplies before heading to the Eiffel Tower”)

  • La Ferme Saint-Aubin (Ile Saint-Louis)

Boulangeries:

  • Maison Decorde (Latin Quarter)

  • Boulangerie 2M (St-Germain)

  • Landemaine Martyrs (9th)

  • Poilane (6th)

  • Besnier (7th)

  • Du Pain et des Idées (10th)

  • Au 140 (Belleville)

  • Le Grenier à Pain (18th)

  • Huré (Le Marais)


Sources:

  • Lonely Planet guide for Paris (Jan 2017)

  • Lonely Planet guide for France (Mar 2017)

  • Moon Paris Walks (Oct 2017)

  • Various food blogs and websites:

    • www.davidlebovitz.com

    • www.lefooding.com

    • www.thefork.com

    • www.gillespudlowski.com

    • www.parisbymouth.com

  • Where Chefs Eat 2018 (Paris)

  • The best brunches in Paris’ 5th Arrondissement

  • The 100 best restaurants in Paris (Time Out)

  • People that kindly shared their list of recommendations: Brian Shiller, Gaby Moran, Louis Goutorbe, and Estella Villard


Here’s what we actually ended up doing:

  • Day 0:

    • Landed at checked into Hotel Monge

    • Walked to Le Relais de l’Entrecôte. Got there at about 5 to 7p, just before opening. Waited in what appeared to be a long line, but we got seated quickly. Enjoyed it.

    • Walked around Ile de la Cite and St-Germain. Ate a nutella crepe on the lively Rue Severin

  • Day 1:

    • Breakfast at the hotel (which was quite good)

    • Walked down Rue Mouffetard, visited Grande Mosquée de Paris, really enjoyed Jardin des Plantes

    • Walked by Arab World Institute (closed on Mondays)

    • Lunch at L’avant Comptoir

    • Back to hotel—long nap (jet lag)

    • Ate some delicious macarons and eclairs from Miason Decorde

    • Dinner at Cafe de la Nouvelle Mairie (amazing ambience and food—highly recommend!)

    • Walked around and made our way over to Rue Severin

    • Saw a blues concert at La Caveau de la Huchette

    • Ate some doner kebab on Rue Severin, where we chatted with the Turkish proprietor “Victor”

  • Day 2:

    • Slept in until noon (jet lag)

    • Took at cab to Ile de la Cite to find a picture-perfect amazingly beautiful Parisian scene: perfect weather, not too crowded, man with guitar singing beautifully

    • Grabbed food from Hure and ate on Pont de Arcole (beautiful accordion playing)

    • Visited Sainte-Chapelle (downloaded the app to see what what scenes in the stained glass mirrors are actually saying and it’s quite…interesting)

    • Snack at Shakespeare Cafe

    • Walked to Jixiao Buns (probably great if you eat pork)

    • Walked over to Rue des Rosiers and back to hotel

    • Saw a concert at L’eglise de la Madeleine (amazingly beautiful)

    • Dinner at Monsieur Bleu (beautiful venue, good food)

  • Day 3: